So I clicked ON for “Local Adjustments” and then clicked on “Show Masks”. Hmm, is there a way to expand the box for “Local Adjustments”, so they all show up together?Īt first I didn’t see all the changes, some must be very subtle. Switching local adjustments on/off, and lots of small things change, and a burnt-out area re-appears at the top. Sorry, I got lost in the “|” issue, and need to go check in detail what you did. One more tool to be packed away in my mental tool-belt. Thank you! Of all the things I learned from this, adjusting the tone curve the way you did is something I never would have thought of on my own. I may go down to the street level, so I’m not looking “down” on this scene, but I like how much I can see here, that I can’t see from ground level.
I plan to wake up early tomorrow, Wednesday, and try to improve on what I’ve done here. Hmm, yesterday was foggy, and this morning even more so.
#How to use dxo filmpack 5 full#
Seeing the full view in my D750 would be better - maybe I’ll do that next time. Using a 135 is pushing it - everything is so small in the viewfinder. Shooting with the rangefinder and 90mm lens is fine. I wanted an excuse to try my old 90mm Summilux lens, and when in doubt, or when I’m not sure, following your suggestion for f/10 seems to produce nice results. Nikon or Leica/Visoflex… probably doesn’t matter. At least the tops of the buildings at the right do fade away completely. The fog completely blanketed the city of Miami, so there’s no hint of the city out there - what would have improved the image, if I do this again, I’ll wait until the fog is just starting to lift. The “G” tool works better than my eye, so that got fixed. I thought I was good at finding whether or not an image was “straight”.
#How to use dxo filmpack 5 how to#
DeepPRIME of course, I wish I could just set this to “always on unless I de-select it”.Īfter 20 minutes or so, I figured out how to manipulate the repair tool so it did what I wanted. My eyes must be tired - going back and forth, it was obvious how much that improved the image, so why didn’t I think to do it on my own? Again, I did like the effect. I adjusted the tone curve the way you did, but I wasn’t sure I liked it, until I switched it on/off a few times.
I tried to find “Fuji Across 100 B&W FilmPack”, but it wasn’t listed in my film packs - or is there a trick to find the full list? I tried B&W, but that removed the green from the trees, which was “real”, and I liked it. I cropped the image until I got rid of things that weren’t needed. For starters, I can only find two dust specs, which I zapped. Hmm, I’m editing another image taken a minute or so before the one I selected before. This gives the image the impression that the fog is still above the ground/water but makes it more opaque as it covers the buildings. Next, I turned on the exposure warnings and altered the ends of the tone curve until the warnings were just extinguished, then lifted the curve to give a bit more, but not too much, contrast… First, as I tend to do with fog pictures, I applied the Fuji Acros 100 B&W FilmPack preset.